The place where he developed and maintains the all-American
style for which he is famous, we revisit a classic story
from the H&G archive - our 2002 tour of the fashion and
homeware designer Ralph Lauren's incredible Colorado ranch Gilles de Chabaneix
The
staircase of the lodge house is simply furnished with sturdy rustic
furniture, an antler chandelier and bold Native American inspired
textiles, The sofa, made by local craftsmen, is covered with an
antique denim patchwork quilt.
Today, the height of luxury and happiness could very well be
space and silence. In an overpopulated world polluted by noise and
urbanization, is there any greater privilege than to own and stroll
through a ranch as big as the island of Manhattan - whose
owner, twenty years after buying the land, admits that he still
doesn't know every inch of it? Gilles de Chabaneix
On the
staircase in the main bedroom are collections of cowboy hats and
vintage blankets.
The ranch in question belongs to American designer Ralph Lauren.
In Ouray County, at the tip of southwest Colorado, it is dominated
by a mountain peak in the San Juan mountain range, known by locals
as Mount Baldy. Ralph Lauren bought, developed and perfected this
magical place, named after himself and his wife Ricky RRL Ranch.
It is not simply a ranch house but a whole self-contained world,
with a collection of houses, valleys, lakes, streams and pastures;
16,000 acres of prairies, forests and rocks; herds of cattle; and
diverse flora and fauna - from the Albert squirrel to the great
brown bear, from Engelmann and Colorado Blue Spruces to the
black-spotted, white-trunked aspens nicknamed 'quakies', because
their leaves rustle constantly in the wind. Gilles de Chabaneix
In the
sitting rooms, Ralph Lauren suede-covered chairs and a sofa
surround a simple table.
Gilles de Chabaneix
Stone used
for the floor of this shower in the steam/sauna area was found
locally.
The ranch has become a cleverly organized world. Passionate
about all things American, Ralph Lauren has furnished and decorated
the different houses on the ranch in a manner that justifies his
title of 'the man who defined American style'. Each of the five
guesthouses (called cabins), the main Lodge House, the Cook House
(where food is prepared and eaten) and the four giant tepees (used
for entertaining) exemplify Western style in the choice of fabrics,
leathers, woods, colours and objects. There are quilts and patchworks with Native-American motifs, and
paintings depicting buffalo hunts. There are wide chimneys for
fires of thick, crackling birch or beech logs and collections of
Navaho, Sioux or Shawnee poetry. There are animal pelts, hunting
trophies, Katchina dolls, antique feather headdresses, cowboy hats,
multicoloured woollen ponchos and rugs from Arizona and New Mexico.
Everything within these sturdy, red-cedar log cabins speaks of the
region's strong identity: its people, craftsmanship and past. Ralph is passionate about Ouray County. One night, after supper,
he tells me how he came to find the ranch. For a long time, he had
been looking for something different from the life he led in New
York. 'A friend told us to forget Montana, where we were searching,
and look at this place in Ouray County. The minute we saw it, that
was it. This is a place for friends and for the children. They come
with their friends and we with ours. The other day, I was shocked
by a telephone call about my next fashion show, because I felt so
far away from the city here. Here nature - the elements, the
mountain and the animals overwhelms you. It has no ties with the
world outside.' Gilles de Chabaneix
In the main
bedroom, the flag above the bed is in fact an antique blanket; the
bed linen is by Ralph Lauren.
Ralph and Ricky enjoy exploring the estate, either 'Jeeping',
riding or walking. 'Recently, Ricky and I found a stream we'd never
seen before. It was absolutely quiet except for the sound of the
water. I had this feeling that I was seeing for the first time in
my life. There is a gentler pace in the countryside that slows you
down. I have other houses, in New York and Jamaica, and I love
them, but the ranch makes me aware of the natural world - it puts
everything into perspective.' Gilles de Chabaneix
Against a
backdrop of aspens, this barn - at a remove from the main buildings
- is used for large scale entertaining.
Gilles de Chabaneix
Timber-built
it is flooded with sunlight, and further lit by chandeliers and
candelabras.
Gilles de Chabaneix
The table is
laid for dinner with an antique lace tablecloth and vintage
bandanas used as napkins. Ralph Lauren designed the monograph china
and Native American-inspired cutlery specially for the
ranch.
Gilles de ChabaneixThe ranch is an escape from the frenetic city life of New York,
but is itself, in a different way, bustling with activity, with six
cowboys and twelve farm workers looking after the cattle, the
vegetable gardens, trails, inner roads and the fifteen horses in
the corral. All year long, the ranch is busy - battling against
drought, rain, snow, cold, fire and predators. To the outsider,
however, visiting RRL Ranch, ranch life is amazingly simple. And
thrilling. Gilles de Chabaneix
The Ranch
has five guest houses or 'cabins' including the Little Blue Pony
cabin, pictured. In the sitting room, built from logs brought from
a nineteenth-century barn in Montana, the leather sofa is by Ralph
Lauren.
In the early morning, the sky is the colour of dark copper. Dawn
washes it violet pink. Guests get up and leave Little Brown Cabin
or Elk Creek Cabin for the Cook House - crossing a meadow where we
search for 'showy daisies', indigenous white-and-mauve daisies with
red centres. We hope to stumble across a columbine - not the
English aquilegia but the amethyst-tinted blossom that is the
official flower of Colorado and which is so rare that picking it
incurs a $300 fine. Breakfast at the Cook House is enormous: eggs,
bacon, sausages, potatoes, toast, blueberry jam, fresh orange
Juice, slices of cantaloupe melon and muffins - all prepared by the
kitchen staff to fuel us for an action-packed day. We have the
choice of exploring by horse for a couple of hours, or hiking along
Cottonwood Creek, the ravine where we spotted a bear the night
before. Or we can swim in the pool near the Lodge, or work out in
the gym house. You lose track of time and the day is over before
you realize it. In the evening, there is a screening of a film in
the specially designed saloon beside the river. Gilles de Chabaneix
In Little
Bear Cabin a table is set with a wooden dough bowl from Santo
Domingo
At least once during the summer, a big nighttime barbecue is
organized on a plateau overlooking the valleys and the Last Dollar
Mountain. It is a magical night. We ride in trucks or on horseback,
trailed by Rugby the dog, who runs through the streams. Marqueeta,
Tom and the other ranch hands have already prepared the campfires.
We eat sausages, T-bone steaks and hot potatoes, all washed down
with cold Coors, the favourite Colorado beer. The night is cold,
dry, brisk and invigorating. There is no artificial light on the
horizon, just the beauty of the landscape. I remember what Ralph
told me, explaining why he bought RRL Ranch: 'We were looking for a
complete change of culture, and a way of life that was fulfilling.
We found it' Gilles de Chabaneix
Four giant
tepees provide additional accommodation for guests.
Gilles de Chabaneix
Each is traditionally
made locally, with covers hand-painted by Native-American
artists.
Gilles de Chabaneix
In this
tepee bedroom a photograph by Edward Curtis hangs above the bed.
Get the look
Inspired by Southwestern textile design 'The Ranch'
Fabric Collection by Ralph Lauren Home features bold geometric
patterns rendered in natural wool, jute and cotton.
''Standing Red
Rock Blanket' fabric by Ralph Lauren Home, £222 per/metre
'Crow
Warrior Blanket' fabric by Ralph Lauren Home, £183 per/metre
'Arrowhead Stripe
Blanket' fabric by Ralph Lauren Home, £233 per/metre
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