In September 1969, a young, Polish-born architect called Daniel Lipszyc was struggling a van, loaded with water pipes and cement, around the hairpin turns of a dirt track that wound up the forested mountainsides of Northern Ibiza. There were no other buildings in sight, and Ibiza was relatively isolated. Although the hippy culture that was to give rise to frenzied tourism had just begun to take root, the island still only received a once-weekly ferry from mainland Spain.
The pipes they were laying and the bricks they were hauling are for Lipszyc's pet project - the construction of the Hotel Hacienda. The story was not unusual of the late Sixties. Franco had begun to age, and the narrow classicism that defined his taste was beginning to be surmounted by a new wave of interesting buildings, not least Ricardo Boffill's 'La Muralla Roja' (the location for the upcoming story 'Around the Block' in House & Garden's October 2015 issue). Shortly after Franco's demise, a new wave of planning laws came in, creating areas of protected landscapes in the north of Ibiza.
This was perfect timing for the Hotel Hacienda, the restrictions coming in to place just as the hotel was completed, but before any others had managed to spring up. To visitors now, the most striking thing about the hotel, in this madly crowded and frenetic island, is its illusion of perfect isolation. Peering out from its terraces and pools, one admires the absolute lack of any other building from view.
Jabal Akhdar Mountains, Oman
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Alila Jabal
Akhdar hotel sits on a cliff in the Al Hajar mountains
Alila Jabal
Akhdar hotel sits on a cliff in the Al Hajar mountains
Some landscapes are so majestic, their spaces so seemingly infinite and their silence so impenetrable, they require a few days before your senses can fully take them in. The Jabal Akhdar mountain area in the Sultanate of Oman-where the Alila hotel group has just opened its first Middle Eastern property-is just such a place.lt will fill your senses to overflowing. And it would be foolish to see it in a hurry.
Jabal Akhdar means 'green mountain'; although it is mostly high, rocky, arid desert terrain here, it is punctuated by pockets of intense fertility. Consequently, after passing miles of heat, dust, dramatic steep gorges and vast silent canyons, you will come upon a cool, green valley bursting with pomegranate, apricot, walnut and peach trees, and carpeted with pale pink roses.
The Alii a Jabal Akhdar sits on a flat cliff-top 2,000 metres high, staring down upon a vast gorge that disappears into the AI Hajar mountains. The light and colours of this landscape change by the hour: in the morning, you'll drink coffee on your villa terrace in a pale honeycomb glow, with an eagle circling overhead; and, at sunset, the hard, rocky lines of the moun-tains are softened by a milky, pink and lavender light, while the depths of the gorge disappear into an unfathomable blackness. There is no sound. But the silence here is more than just an absence of noise, it has a fullness and completeness that is profoundly calming - should you need to, you can augment that effect with treatments and massages at the spa, staffed by Alila's best masseurs from its hotels in Bali, or a lazy swim in the infinity pool.
The
mountain village of Birkat al-Mawz is nearby
Tourism is in its infancy in this part of Oman, so getting in a four-wheel drive to visit villages where crafts are practised never feels like a packaged or cliched experience. The village of AI Aqur; which is famous for its production of rose oil and rose water; is deeply traditional. The city of Nizwa, the cityscape of which is a sea of date palms rather than skyscrapers, has a seventeenth-century fort and a small souk. Near the hotel you can walk, taking in stupendous, vertigo-inducing scenery. Alila also plans to introduce challenging overnight hikes, cycling tours and luxury camping.
Jabal Akhdar stays in your system, like a calming narcotic, long after you have left. lt is about as far away from the frenetic urban bling of the Gulf, epitomised by Dubai and Abu Dhabi, as it is possible to get. Those buildings may get taller and more extraordinary by the year; but they're nothing compared with nature at its most spectacular. Take your time and drink it in.
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