Istanbul is a bustling metropolis split like no other
between two continents. The three-thousand-year-old city has carved
out a rich art hub, an unrivalled shopping experience and diverse
food and drink scene. Here we will be cutting into the frenzy of Turkish
cuisine to give you a taste of where to go, what to drink and most
importantly what to eat.
Mark Kimber
View from
the Bosphorus
DAY ONE:
Mark Kimber
Haci Hasen
Fehmi
Breakfast, is a very important meal in Istanbul, which means it
deserves a truly rewarding dish. Be sure to head to Haci Hasen
Fehmi (Kemankeş Mah, Yemişçi Hasan Sok. No:11,
Beyoğlu), a family owned business that has been open
since 1915. Despite its humble exterior this is one of the best
places to order the traditional Turkish dish, Kaymak made from
buffalo milk. This may not sound very appealing but the fresh,
buttery texture is heavenly and perfectly matched with organic
honey drizzled on top. Followed by a coffee, there is no finer
Turkish start to the day. Mark Kimber
Two local
fishermen
Hidden gem: If you're up with the sunrise, and
need a pre-breakfast boaster, the lively fish market on the edge of
Karaköy is well worth a visit for a strong coffee. Don't be put off
by it's location, if it looks like a place where you are more
likely to buy a ship anchor than a pretzel, you have come to the
right place. Early mornings are the best time to get to the market
to avoid the crowds and enjoy an uninterrupted view of the
Bosphorus shoreline. Mark Kimber
Shoreline
of the Bosphorus
Mark Kimber
Local
coffee shop
Catch a ferry over to the Old City, and if you can, grab a
window seat, it's well worth the view. The ferry is a superb way to
get around and is also great value for money. If you are staying
for more than two days invest in an 'Istanbulkart', their
equivalent of London's Oyster Card, it is the best way to get
around town. Mark Kimber
Borsam
local street food
To keep with tradition head for a light lunch at Borsam Tas
Firin (Caferağa, 34710), to order a crispy and refreshing
Lahmacun. This rather delightful treat is a thin piece of dough
topped with a mix of minced meat, vegetables, onions, tomatoes and
parsley, and is one of the best Turkish street foods you can find.
Pair that with an Ayran, a cold yogurt beverage mixed with salt,
you might just consider yourself a local. Mark Kimber
Street
food stuffed mussels
Mark Kimber
Turkish
Delight
To keep things food-focused head to the Kadiköy market, it is
bursting with traditional Turkish treats. Look out for the
plump stuffed mussels with herbed rice, pine nuts and
currants, a very delicious and very local snack.
DAY TWO:
Soho
House
Start your day hungry and head to the trendy area of Beyoğlu to
find a seat at the newly opened Soho
House. They offer a varied menu of delicious egg dishes and
have a well-stocked bakery. If you're looking for a morning health
kick the 'Breakfast' smoothie is the perfect choice with House
almond milk, granola, banana and honey - just delicious. Enjoy the
grand surroundings of Soho House once the home of the US Consulate
from 1906 to 2003. The soaring ceilings, frescos and ornate
fireplaces, all wonderfully restored will compliment every taste of
your sun-drenched breakfast. Mark Kimber
Interior
of Müzedechanga
After a morning of sightseeing, jump into a taxi to Müzedechanga. The incredibly slick sister to
the original restaurant, Changa also opened by Tarik Bayazit, was
created for the cultured set that were flocking to the newly
extended Sakip Sabanci Muzesi. The striking glass-cube
structure is fitted with retro-edged interiors and timber
furnishings and was designed by the innovative Istanbul based
design studio, Autoban. The restaurants menu created by Peter
Gordon is just as refreshing as its interior, offering a unique
take on traditional Turkish cuisine. Mark Kimber
Octopus
To tell you what to eat here would be like trying to pick your
favourite Jane Austen novel - impossible. What we can tell you is,
the chargrilled baby squid is a perfect partner for a hot summer
day. Tender and sweet with a unique rustic Turkish taste it's not
only delicious, but also looks like it should belong in the Sakip
Sabanci Muzesi. If you are looking for something a little
different, the moist mushroom stuffed dumplings are a great
excuse for a little comfort food. Finally the slow-cooked lamb,
which epitomises good Turkish home cooking is a dish reason enough
for the award-winning chef to open a third restaurant - encore,
encore. If the food doesn't do it for you the glamorous terrace is
another reason to draw you to this design-driven restaurant. If I
lived in Istanbul, I would be a regular here. Mark Kimber
Luxury
Istanbul boat hire
After your lunch, spoil yourself with a luxury boat ride down
the majestic Bosphorus River. Luxury
Istanbul offers tailor-made tours in a comfortable and
relaxing environment. There is no better way to explore the
impressive shoreline than on the famous riveria. By boat you will
glide passed the Asian and European shores from waterfront
palaces of Sultans and their Pasha's villas to the European Side
from the Çirağan Palace, to the Rumeli Fortress. Mark Kimber
Ortaköy
Mosque
Mark Kimble
Çırağan
Palace Kempinski
After your unforgettable boat ride, make your way to the
dizzying heights of Mikla. At the very top of The Marmara
hotel, this place draws the cities fashionable society crowd
and foodies. Here you can enjoy your G&T with a view. Labelled
the best view of Istanbul's skyline it would be difficult to argue
the opposite. The floor to ceiling bar area is hard to beat and the
small roof terrace and pool adds a trendy dimension to the buzzing
atmosphere. The menu, thanks to the brilliant Turkish-Swedish chef
Mehmet Gürs makes this trendy drinking spot one of the go-to places
for any self-confessed foodie. Mark Kimber
View from
Mikla
Mikla is best served in the evening, so you can
see the busy city transform into light multi-coloured calm. There
is a large menu to choose from, including a highly appealing three
course à la carte menu and an adventurous seven course-tasting
menu. We decided to go it alone and was very happy we did. In
keeping with the plush surroundings we started with the flavourful
dried tenderloin, which comes with lentil humus, (yes, lentils not
chickpeas) and a fresh green tomato. For our main, it was a very tough call. Being on the Bosphorus
we had to go for a fish dish, but which one? Naturally we consulted
the waitress for her advice. Suspense over, I eventually, after
much deliberation went for the sweet grilled prawns with red
pepper, sweet corn, arugula, capers, olive oil, braised sakız
artichoke and finally lemon. What a feast it was. Needless to say
food envy was rife at our table and my plus one was rather
jealous. If you haven't already had lamb in Istanbul, this is the place
to order it. They offer lamb from the pot or from the grill. Lamb
from the pot sends pangs of joy to my heart, so if you fancy a
little more Turkish comfort food, order this dish without a minutes
delay.
Mikla's
rooftop bar
This may well be your last pudding in Istanbul so you need to
choose a memorable dish to boast about. My favourite was the
traditional dish with a Mikla twist, the rice pudding with mastic,
roasted hazelnut, black mulberry crisp and strawberry sorbet.
Granted the strawberry sorbet may seem like a strange addition, but
is a surprising compliment to the black mulberry crisp. 'But what about the wine?' I hear you cry. Very much like their
food menu, Mikla has a varied and delicious wine menu. As
you may know Turkey is not a country known for producing quality
wines. 'Up until the '90s there were only a handful of producers in
the country, which produced occasionally drinkable wines', says
Ceylan Milor from gastromondiale.com. However, now,
thank the vineyards things have changed for the better. However,
with Turkey's limited competition in the market and heavy taxation
on imported wine be prepared to a pay little over the odds. But
heck, its your last night in the capital! We say go native and
order a bottle of Turkish red and create a wonderful crescendo to
your weekend away.
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