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Thursday, October 8, 2015

Istanbul itinerary

Istanbul is a bustling metropolis split like no other between two continents. The three-thousand-year-old city has carved out a rich art hub, an unrivalled shopping experience and diverse food and drink scene.
Here we will be cutting into the frenzy of Turkish cuisine to give you a taste of where to go, what to drink and most importantly what to eat.

Mark Kimber
View from the Bosphorus
DAY ONE:
Mark Kimber
Haci Hasen Fehmi
Breakfast, is a very important meal in Istanbul, which means it deserves a truly rewarding dish. Be sure to head to Haci Hasen Fehmi (Kemankeş Mah, Yemişçi Hasan Sok. No:11, Beyoğlu), a family owned business that has been open since 1915. Despite its humble exterior this is one of the best places to order the traditional Turkish dish, Kaymak made from buffalo milk. This may not sound very appealing but the fresh, buttery texture is heavenly and perfectly matched with organic honey drizzled on top. Followed by a coffee, there is no finer Turkish start to the day. 
Mark Kimber
Two local fishermen
Hidden gem: If you're up with the sunrise, and need a pre-breakfast boaster, the lively fish market on the edge of Karaköy is well worth a visit for a strong coffee. Don't be put off by it's location, if it looks like a place where you are more likely to buy a ship anchor than a pretzel, you have come to the right place. Early mornings are the best time to get to the market to avoid the crowds and enjoy an uninterrupted view of the Bosphorus shoreline.
Mark Kimber
Shoreline of the Bosphorus
Mark Kimber
Local coffee shop
Catch a ferry over to the Old City, and if you can, grab a window seat, it's well worth the view. The ferry is a superb way to get around and is also great value for money. If you are staying for more than two days invest in an 'Istanbulkart', their equivalent of London's Oyster Card, it is the best way to get around town.  
Mark Kimber
Borsam local street food
  To keep with tradition head for a light lunch at Borsam Tas Firin (Caferağa, 34710), to order a crispy and refreshing Lahmacun. This rather delightful treat is a thin piece of dough topped with a mix of minced meat, vegetables, onions, tomatoes and parsley, and is one of the best Turkish street foods you can find. Pair that with an Ayran, a cold yogurt beverage mixed with salt, you might just consider yourself a local.
Mark Kimber
Street food stuffed mussels
Mark Kimber
Turkish Delight
To keep things food-focused head to the Kadiköy market, it is bursting with traditional Turkish treats. Look out for the plump stuffed mussels with herbed rice, pine nuts and currants, a very delicious and very local snack. 
DAY TWO:
Soho House
Start your day hungry and head to the trendy area of Beyoğlu to find a seat at the newly opened Soho House. They offer a varied menu of delicious egg dishes and have a well-stocked bakery. If you're looking for a morning health kick the 'Breakfast' smoothie is the perfect choice with House almond milk, granola, banana and honey - just delicious. Enjoy the grand surroundings of Soho House once the home of the US Consulate from 1906 to 2003. The soaring ceilings, frescos and ornate fireplaces, all wonderfully restored will compliment every taste of your sun-drenched breakfast.
Mark Kimber
Interior of Müzedechanga
After a morning of sightseeing, jump into a taxi to Müzedechanga. The incredibly slick sister to the original restaurant, Changa also opened by Tarik Bayazit, was created for the cultured set that were flocking to the newly extended Sakip Sabanci Muzesi. The striking glass-cube structure is fitted with retro-edged interiors and timber furnishings and was designed by the innovative Istanbul based design studio, Autoban. The restaurants menu created by Peter Gordon is just as refreshing as its interior, offering a unique take on traditional Turkish cuisine.
Mark Kimber
Octopus
To tell you what to eat here would be like trying to pick your favourite Jane Austen novel - impossible. What we can tell you is, the chargrilled baby squid is a perfect partner for a hot summer day. Tender and sweet with a unique rustic Turkish taste it's not only delicious, but also looks like it should belong in the Sakip Sabanci Muzesi. If you are looking for something a little different, the moist mushroom stuffed dumplings are a great excuse for a little comfort food. Finally the slow-cooked lamb, which epitomises good Turkish home cooking is a dish reason enough for the award-winning chef to open a third restaurant - encore, encore. 
If the food doesn't do it for you the glamorous terrace is another reason to draw you to this design-driven restaurant. If I lived in Istanbul, I would be a regular here.
Mark Kimber
Luxury Istanbul boat hire
After your lunch, spoil yourself with a luxury boat ride down the majestic Bosphorus River. Luxury Istanbul offers tailor-made tours in a comfortable and relaxing environment. There is no better way to explore the impressive shoreline than on the famous riveria. By boat you will glide passed the Asian and European shores from waterfront palaces of Sultans and their Pasha's villas to the European Side from the Çirağan Palace, to the Rumeli Fortress.
Mark Kimber
Ortaköy Mosque
Mark Kimble
Çırağan Palace Kempinski
After your unforgettable boat ride, make your way to the dizzying heights of Mikla. At the very top of The Marmara hotel, this place draws the cities fashionable society crowd and foodies. Here you can enjoy your G&T with a view. Labelled the best view of Istanbul's skyline it would be difficult to argue the opposite. The floor to ceiling bar area is hard to beat and the small roof terrace and pool adds a trendy dimension to the buzzing atmosphere. The menu, thanks to the brilliant Turkish-Swedish chef Mehmet Gürs makes this trendy drinking spot one of the go-to places for any self-confessed foodie.
Mark Kimber
View from Mikla
Mikla is best served in the evening, so you can see the busy city transform into light multi-coloured calm. There is a large menu to choose from, including a highly appealing three course à la carte menu and an adventurous seven course-tasting menu. We decided to go it alone and was very happy we did. In keeping with the plush surroundings we started with the flavourful dried tenderloin, which comes with lentil humus, (yes, lentils not chickpeas) and a fresh green tomato. 
For our main, it was a very tough call. Being on the Bosphorus we had to go for a fish dish, but which one? Naturally we consulted the waitress for her advice. Suspense over, I eventually, after much deliberation went for the sweet grilled prawns with red pepper, sweet corn, arugula, capers, olive oil, braised sakız artichoke and finally lemon. What a feast it was. Needless to say food envy was rife at our table and my plus one was rather jealous.
If you haven't already had lamb in Istanbul, this is the place to order it. They offer lamb from the pot or from the grill. Lamb from the pot sends pangs of joy to my heart, so if you fancy a little more Turkish comfort food, order this dish without a minutes delay. 
Mikla's rooftop bar
This may well be your last pudding in Istanbul so you need to choose a memorable dish to boast about. My favourite was the traditional dish with a Mikla twist, the rice pudding with mastic, roasted hazelnut, black mulberry crisp and strawberry sorbet. Granted the strawberry sorbet may seem like a strange addition, but is a surprising compliment to the black mulberry crisp.  
'But what about the wine?' I hear you cry. Very much like their food menu, Mikla has a varied and delicious wine menu. As you may know Turkey is not a country known for producing quality wines. 'Up until the '90s there were only a handful of producers in the country, which produced occasionally drinkable wines', says Ceylan Milor from gastromondiale.com. However, now, thank the vineyards things have changed for the better. However, with Turkey's limited competition in the market and heavy taxation on imported wine be prepared to a pay little over the odds. But heck, its your last night in the capital! We say go native and order a bottle of Turkish red and create a wonderful crescendo to your weekend away.

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