While most travelers head for Italy during the summer to take advantage of the nice weather, there’s something to be said for spending Christmas in Italy. Any place is especially fun to visit when it’s decked out in its holiday finery, and the added bonus of experiencing Christmas traditions that may be new to you can make your trip even more exciting and memorable. Here are a few of the things to know about planning a trip to Italy during Christmastime.
Christmas Traditions
Christmas, called “Natale” in Italian, looks in Italy quite a bit like you might expect. Christmas trees are a newer addition to the traditional Italian decor, but now you’ll see big trees erected in public squares all lit up. The most common Christmas decor in Italy, usually seen starting in early December, are Nativity scenes – called “presepi” in Italian. These are found in public squares, in churches, in shops and restaurants and in private homes. Some cities even have living Nativity scenes enacted daily by locals in costume throughout the season.Santa Claus goes by the name “Babbo Natale” – which is Father Christmas to us – but he’s also a more modern addition. The gift-bearing character is actually La Befana, a witch who rides a broomstick into Italian homes and leaves presents for children the night before the Epiphany (January 6th).
You may be familiar with outdoor Christmas markets in countries like Austria and Germany, and in Italy there are some cities that have similar markets. Most of these are in the north, especially the Germanic Trentino-Alto Adige region. Otherwise look for markets in major public squares, where you’ll often find vendors selling roasted chestnuts and (sometimes) hot mulled wine.
Italians have a big family dinner on Christmas Eve, but what’s on the table will differ from region to region. Sweets play a prominent role almost regardless of where you go, however, and there are some desserts you’ll only see at this time of year: including panettone, a sweet bread from Milan, and struffoli, deep-fried balls of dough from Naples.
Italy is predominantly Catholic, and Midnight Mass is held in churches throughout the country on Christmas Eve. If you’re in Rome, you can head to Vatican City to see the Pope’s Christmas Eve address in St. Peter’s Square.
Visitor’s Tips
Although winter is typically part of Italy’s low tourist season, there’s a small spike around the holidays – Christmas and New Year’s – that can mean a jump in the cost of things like airfare and hotels. This is especially true in cities that are well-known for their holiday celebrations, so plan ahead and book flights and accommodation well in advance.Depending on where you go, many things may be closed (or on shorter hours) over the holidays, too. Check official websites to find out whether museums and other attractions are closed (many are closed on December 24-25); and when you arrive you may need to scout out restaurants that will be open, too. You should be able to get some help in that regard from the concierge at your hotel – and be prepared with a back-up plan of a picnic in your hotel room after a trip to the local food market just in case.
The weather in December varies quite a bit depending on what part of Italy you’re in. In the north and in any mountainous areas it can be very cold and snowy. Along the coasts it’s more likely to be cold and rainy. Further south, you may get some rain but it’s less apt to be cold – the temperatures in the south are much milder in winter (again, except for in the mountains). Check the current weather reports right before you leave so you know how to pack.
Basilica of San Zeno in Verona
Saint Zeno is an important figure in the history of Verona, so his church – the Basilica of San Zeno – is of particular importance, too.The story goes that Saint Zeno converted all of Verona to Christianity in the 4th century, and was responsible for the construction of the first basilica in the city. That church no longer exists, however. After Saint Zeno died, a church dedicated to him was constructed over the site of his tomb. The present church dates to the 9th century, though much of what we see today dates from the 10th-15th centuries. It’s slightly out of the city center, but because of the saint’s importance it’s one of the most important things to see in Verona.
The Basilica of San Zeno is noted as a good example of Romanesque architecture, which was representative of the 10th century when the church was built, and the basilica became the blueprint upon which other churches in Verona were modeled. Among the main attractions of the basilica are the bronze doors – the fine relief sculptures show scenes from the Bible and from Saint Zeno’s life – and the rose window. There is a statue of a smiling Saint Zeno in the presbytery, and the crypt below the church is where the saint’s tomb is located.
The church is open in March-October from 8:30-6pm Monday-Saturday, and from 12:30pm-6pm on Sundays; and in November-February from 10am-1pm and 1:30pm-5pm Monday-Saturday, and from 12:30pm-5pm on Sundays. Admission is €2.50 (children ages 0-11 are free).
Visiting Sorrento from Rome
Rome is the kind of city that can keep travelers busy for weeks on end, but it can also be overwhelming. For those of you in need of an escape to a glittering seaside town with a slower pace of life, Sorrento is awaiting your arrival.Sorrento sits on the (aptly-named) Sorrentine Peninsula, roughly between Naples and the Amalfi Coast. It’s often lumped in with the Amalfi Coast, and it shares many characteristics with that series of coastal towns, but it’s not technically part of the same geography. It is, however, easier to reach — particularly from farther-away places like Rome — since it’s served by Italy’s train network (unlike the Amalfi Coast). It can be a 2.5-3 hour trip one-way from Rome to Sorrento by train, so in order to make this a feasible day trip from Rome you’ll need to get a very early start. It’s even better if you can spend a night in Sorrento once you get there, to explore more fully and relax a bit more.
Besides being the ideal spot from which to see sights like Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast, and the islands of Ischia and Capri, Sorrento is a popular tourist destination all on its own. Its proximity to Naples’ massive cruise port makes it a common shore excursion, and its relatively larger size (compared to the Amalfi Coast towns) makes it enjoyable year-round. The town is famous for beautiful beaches, boutique shopping and limoncello — Sorrento’s signature spirit.
To reach Sorrento from Rome, you’ll take a high-speed train to Naples Centrale station, a journey of roughly 1-1.5 hours, and then switch to the local and private train line called the Circumvesuviana. This is technically in a different station called Garibaldi, but it’s accessible from Centrale station — just follow the signs downstairs. From Naples to Sorrento is about an hour, and trains leave about every half-hour from Naples. You can also take a boat to Sorrento once you’ve arrived in Naples – the hydrofoil trip is quite short, but you’ll need to take a taxi or bus from the train station to the Molo Beverello port area.
Swabian Castle in Bari
The city of Bari is Puglia’s capital, and it’s a huge and important port. The historic center, however, has plenty of attractions that will whisky you back in time – as opposed to transporting you over the sea. One of the most notable is the Swabian Castle, also known as the Castello Normanno-Svevo.The first castle on this site was likely built in the 1130s by a Norman King. The Normans ruled southern Italy starting in the early 11th century, taking the region from the Byzantines, but in 1156 the existing castle was destroyed when Byzantine troops re-took the city. By the early 13th century, the region was now under the control of the Swabian government from southern Germany. The castle in Bari we see today was rebuilt in 1233 by the Swabian King Frederick II, Holy Roman Emperor. This is why the castle retains the names of both rulers – Normanno (Norman) and Svevo (Swabian).
Over the years since the Castello Normanno-Svevo was rebuilt, it has had several additions, but much of the 13th century structure remains. It stands as a great example of medieval building techniques, and features a stone bridge over a dry moat and several towers. The moat surrounds three sides of the castle, with the fourth side facing the sea.
The Swabian Castle in Bari was given to the Sforza family in the early 16th century, and later became property of the Kingdom of Naples when it was used as a military barracks and prison. Today, part of the the castle houses government offices, and the rest is used mainly for art exhibitions.
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